Unagi Mislabeling

The European eel (Anguilla anguilla) has declined by over 90% since the early 1980s and has been listed as critically endangered. Yet, despite strict export bans from the European Union, the European eel is still sold illegally in many countries. Efforts to monitor the trade of European eels have been primarily concentrated in Asian markets where concerningly high rates of European eel have been reported. Comparably fewer studies have assessed the identities of eel samples from the United States (US), despite the obvious implications for eel conservation. To address this knowledge gap, we purchased 137 eel products (134 freshwater eels and three saltwater eels) from grocers, sushi bars, and restaurants in nine states across the US from 2019 to 2021.

Seven samples (5.2%) labeled as freshwater eels (or unagi) were identified as European eels using a combination of mitochondrial (cytochrome b) and nuclear (18S rRNA) restriction digestion assays, a fast and inexpensive molecular tool for seafood identification that can identify hybrids between European eels (A. anguilla) and American eels (A. rostrata). No hybrids between European and American eels were found and all seven samples identified with restriction digestion as European eels were confirmed by sequencing of cytochrome b and 18S rRNA. Frequency of European eels in US markets did not significantly correlate with state or retail type. Although illegal eel exports are likely reaching US consumers, the frequency of European eel samples in this study of the US market is much lower than found in other non-European countries.

Published paper is open access here